Monday, July 27, 2009

Anasazi V2 Blancos my review

So this weekend I test drove my new shoes the Fiveten Anasazi Blanco V2. How did an unemployed graduate end up with such a steamingly sexy, svelt and expensive pair of shoes? Well, It all started with a trip to a children's consignment shop in Squamish Canada last year where I picked up a pair of red warmup pants and a bright red top both made to fit a 7 year old.

Said items were then worn to a "tight and Bright" party hosted by the Squamish Mountain Festival. Being one of the tightest and brightest, as was my lady, we were invited to the front of the party late in the evening to gather support from the crowd in the form of cheers to hopefully score some new shoes. Lets just say the crowd was somehow too distracted by all the sexy climber-esses (that's female climbers) in spandex to really give a shit about me. So with one pair of free shoes left the DJ announces, "OK first handstand gets the last pair of shoes." Now i'm no handstand expert, and I was probably a little too close to the turntables to be pulling any inverted drunken moves at this point, but I somehow pulled out a handstand fast enough and long enough to qualify and get the free 5.10 certificate. Boooyah!
Given that I've gone through 3 pairs of Anasazi velcros (with resoles) and am halfway through a pair of mocassyms, i feel pretty well qualified to speak to the virtues of these beauties.
I like them. The C4 rubber, which is not featured on the Velcros (they have Onyx) is unnaturaly grippy, or at least was on the granite this weekend.
I sized them as small as possible, when trying them on in the store, I couldn't even put my foot into a size 10. So 10.5 being the smallest I could fit into, I went with them ( I wear between an 11 and 12 in street shoes, and my velcros are size 11, while my Moccasyms are 10.5). I'm really hoping that with the synthetic uppers there won't be a lot of stretch.
What about the heal? I know you are asking. The legendary slingshot heal that is either loved or reviled by would-be 5.10 wearers works awesome with my sledgehammer heals. I think for people with zee gurly-dainty heals, this may not be the case. Anyways, when I slip into these things, I can feel the heel cup pushing my foot forward and into a seriously aggressive stance. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Bunyons.
How do they climb? So far, so very good. I'd go so far as to say confidence inspiring. The slightly stiffer sole (I think this is what they call a rand?) worried me at first in that I might lose sensitivity, and I did feel that a little bit. What was lost in sensitivity was made up for in overall climbability. The V2's stiffness allowed for me to put more weight on marginal footholds than usual, and then keep my power focused on the front of the foot through the slingshot-heel action.
I hate laced shoes, just because I lack the patience to sit and evenly pull each lace, and often feel like just putting them on actually gives me flash pump. While these shoes were laces, and they do take time, and I do hate the waiting and lacing, actually taking the time to lace these things up was worth it for the perfect baby in a papoose, joey in a pouch, hot dog in a bagel (dog?) snugness that envelopes the entire foot; a feeling that is definitely lacking in the previously mentioned Anasazis.
I don't know, maybe all of this is BS and I'm just climbing better because I have cool white new looking shoes on my feet and brand new edges, But those are my two cents on the V2, a shoe review, take it or leave it, I'm only writing this in hopes of getting free gear one day anyways.
OK PEACOUT.

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